Wednesday, 20 June 2012
Wednesday, 13 June 2012
The Way to Santiago
I have to say that the walk from Sarria to Santiago had some of the nicest scenary on the Camino. We walked past Eucalyptus groves, through Woods, throught beautiful little towns, but... the feeling of the Camino was changing. In order for one to get their Compostela in Santiago, one has to walk the last 100 km. You can have walked the first 700 but if you don't walk the last 100 - no Compostela. This is where one meets a different type of Pilgrim. More of a tourista type Pilgrim, who rushes from Alburgue to Alburgue. I also noticed that now the "gouging" was starting. Prices of food were increasing and some of the Alburgues were not as hospitable. They just wanted one's money. It's a shame really,because if you were a Pilgrim who only walked the last 100, then you really don't experience the true "flavour" of the Camino. It has been a wonderful experience and as we were getting closer to Santiago I felt a little sad that my Camino would be coming to an end. I have met some wonderful people - people I will never forget, people who walked for all types of reasons. People who have courage. The Camino was a lot easier than I thought it would be, because I could walk the Camino the way I wanted to walk the Camino. I stopped to smell the flowers, to meet other pilgrims, to pet the dogs, to look at the scenary, to admire the architecture and to laugh and dance and sing. We did a lot of laughing and singing.
When we walked into Santiago, we wondered which fellow pilgrims we would see, the retired Major- Bill from England and his walking companion Bill from California. We hadn't seen them in awhile. Danijila my young Croatian friend who now lives in Berlin. Mike, who walked in tandem with his aunt, Jurgen, who had tendonitis and had to slow down and of course our Canadian friends, Donna, Vicky, Katherine, Gail and Hope. The six French pilgrims we would sing with along the way. And many more whose names I don't know, but who were there with us on our journey.
I felt proud when I picked up my Compostela. I will frame it and hang it on my wall. But really when one thinks about it, it is just a piece of paper. The experience of walking the Camino was my real gain. An experience I will never forget.
Oh.. and the pilgrims, I mentioned in the above paragraph, I saw them all in Santiago and that ......... was the icing on the cake.
When we walked into Santiago, we wondered which fellow pilgrims we would see, the retired Major- Bill from England and his walking companion Bill from California. We hadn't seen them in awhile. Danijila my young Croatian friend who now lives in Berlin. Mike, who walked in tandem with his aunt, Jurgen, who had tendonitis and had to slow down and of course our Canadian friends, Donna, Vicky, Katherine, Gail and Hope. The six French pilgrims we would sing with along the way. And many more whose names I don't know, but who were there with us on our journey.
I felt proud when I picked up my Compostela. I will frame it and hang it on my wall. But really when one thinks about it, it is just a piece of paper. The experience of walking the Camino was my real gain. An experience I will never forget.
Oh.. and the pilgrims, I mentioned in the above paragraph, I saw them all in Santiago and that ......... was the icing on the cake.
Sunday, 27 May 2012
Sarria
I haven´t had much time to blog since Hospital ´de Orbigo but have to tell you it has been fantastic. We are now in Sarria the starting point of the last 100 km. before Santiago. We have had so many wonderful things happen since Hospital, they might seem small to some but were wonderful experiences for us. We started out from Hospital a few days ago. To be frank, all the places we have stayed are starting to run into one another so that it is hard to remember when things happened unless one can blog regularly. Our walk out of Hospital had us walking through some wonderful farm country, right through farmyards. We saw cows and chickens, farmers planting their crops and the wild lavender that grows on the side of the road is something to behold. We picked lots to place in our hats and on our pillows at night to help us sleep, not that we need much help after all the walking we have been doing. On our way from Hospital to Astorga we came upon a lovely, very much needed oasis. It was a little cantina in the middle of nowhere that was run by a lovely young man named David. He offered -just for a donation, dried figs, nuts, muesli, milk, herb teas, fruit, coffee, you name it, he had it. All organic and also a lovely place to rest and listen to a fellow pilgrim play the ukelele. We sat down, ate our fill and listened to the music and then we were on our way. It had been very hot during those days so it was nice find a place rest for awhile. He even hung up a hammock for us to rest in, but we had to be on our way to the next Alburgue.
A few days later we made the climb up to cruz de Faro. It was a spectacular walk. Beautiful scenary. We found it to be one of our favourite walks, high up into the mountains of the highest point of the Camino. 1800 feet. The view below was spectacular. Cruz De Faro is a very special place, very spiritual for some, religious for others. It is a place where one usually takes a rock or some other momento to place at the cross, all for very personal reasons.
Another of our favourite places was Ruitilan. We stayed in a great Albergue. Were fed Spaghetti Carbonera and a wonderful squash soup for supper and also woken in the morning to Ava Marie along with a lovely breakfast and our room all for the princely sum of 15 euros. It was a hot day 30 degrees so we donned our shorts and went down to the ¨beach¨¨. A little place to paddle by the river than ran down from the mountains, all the while being entertained by a beautifully coloured rooster and his harum of hens. Running back and forth across the little bridge that crossed the river. After our wonderful supper it was bed time and ready to climb another mountain - O Cebriero. Again, another wonderful walk. The scenary changed drastically once we were over the mountain. We could be in Ireland. It is much cooler on this side of the mountain, it is celtic country. We are in Galicia. The food has changed and they even play music reminiscent of Scottish or Irish roots. Where we are now is Sarria. We arrived this afternoon. Lovely walk through little hamlets. We went up to the market recommended by our hospitalaro where we tried pulpo for the very first time. Octopus boiled and sprinkled with salt, olive oil and paprika, washed down with vino tinto. I cannot begin to describe how delicious this is. We are just relaxing now, doing what pilgrims do when they arrive at the next Albergue, hand washing, deciding where we will stay tomorrow, mingling with our Camino friends. Tomorrow is another day, with what I am sure will be lots of more new things to experience.
A few days later we made the climb up to cruz de Faro. It was a spectacular walk. Beautiful scenary. We found it to be one of our favourite walks, high up into the mountains of the highest point of the Camino. 1800 feet. The view below was spectacular. Cruz De Faro is a very special place, very spiritual for some, religious for others. It is a place where one usually takes a rock or some other momento to place at the cross, all for very personal reasons.
Another of our favourite places was Ruitilan. We stayed in a great Albergue. Were fed Spaghetti Carbonera and a wonderful squash soup for supper and also woken in the morning to Ava Marie along with a lovely breakfast and our room all for the princely sum of 15 euros. It was a hot day 30 degrees so we donned our shorts and went down to the ¨beach¨¨. A little place to paddle by the river than ran down from the mountains, all the while being entertained by a beautifully coloured rooster and his harum of hens. Running back and forth across the little bridge that crossed the river. After our wonderful supper it was bed time and ready to climb another mountain - O Cebriero. Again, another wonderful walk. The scenary changed drastically once we were over the mountain. We could be in Ireland. It is much cooler on this side of the mountain, it is celtic country. We are in Galicia. The food has changed and they even play music reminiscent of Scottish or Irish roots. Where we are now is Sarria. We arrived this afternoon. Lovely walk through little hamlets. We went up to the market recommended by our hospitalaro where we tried pulpo for the very first time. Octopus boiled and sprinkled with salt, olive oil and paprika, washed down with vino tinto. I cannot begin to describe how delicious this is. We are just relaxing now, doing what pilgrims do when they arrive at the next Albergue, hand washing, deciding where we will stay tomorrow, mingling with our Camino friends. Tomorrow is another day, with what I am sure will be lots of more new things to experience.
Sunday, 20 May 2012
Leon
Cathy, Shelagh and myself stayed in a hostal in Leon last night. Natalie, said she has seen Leon before and wanted to stay in the suburbs, so we had arranged to meet her in San Miguel Alburgue today. We had the most fantastic time in Leon. We met up with a large number of our ¨Camino family¨, including Russell aka Dennis the Mennis whom I thought I would never see again. It seems a lot of the pilgrims decided to spend the day and night in Leon and explore and just take in the wonderful atmosphere. We made our way to the main square where there was a farmer´s market going on. We bought the most tasty cheese, Cherries, oranges, then we just sat around in the various bars, people watching. It is quite an experience to be in a strange city and know so many people. As we sat at our table, pilgrim, after pilgrim, came by, these are people we have met over the past weeks and who are now our friends. Every corner we turned we would see someone else we knew. You see, when one is on the Camino and says Buen Camino to a fellow Pilgrim, one never really knows if they will see that person again, so when we do, it is the greatest feeling.
Leon is a beautiful City. I am so glad we visited. The Cathederal is beautiful and the people of Leon very, friendly. This is another thing we have noticed about the Camino. When we are in small villages and there is only one shop to buy from, we are never gouged. A coffee is still only 1.20, no matter where you are. You can have a piece of tortilla (Spanish omelette)and a coffee for 3.00 euros. Our cherries were 1.99 a kg. 3 huge oranges for 50 cents. Everything in Spain is so inexpensive and everyone seems so happy.
Tonight we are in Albergue San Miguel. This is an absolutely beautiful Albergue. We were greeted at the door with a glass of wine. It is a very artsy place. The walls are covered with artwork of fellow pilgrims who have stayed here in the past. I too could paint a picture, but do not think I could even come close to some of the artwork on these walls. It is such a welcoming place, lovely wood stove, beautiful patio and we all got a bottom bunk! Yeah!!!! As it is getting a bit hard for someone my age to get in and out of bed at night to go to the washroom when I am on the top bunk. I told Natalie if there is only one bunkbed, then I will always let her have the bottom. Age has to have some benefit. lol.
We will be moving out of the Meseta the day after tomorrow. The scenery will change again. It is all beautiful in it´s own way . I have really enjoyed it. We walked roughly 24 k today and I must admit towards the end of our daily walk it can sometimes be a bit hard, but we have realized as long as we take frequent breaks - as per Darlene´s instructions, it makes it so much easier. Chocolate also helps. Darlene told me about that too. Well we are off to take the washing off the line and look for something to eat, will post again soon.
Leon is a beautiful City. I am so glad we visited. The Cathederal is beautiful and the people of Leon very, friendly. This is another thing we have noticed about the Camino. When we are in small villages and there is only one shop to buy from, we are never gouged. A coffee is still only 1.20, no matter where you are. You can have a piece of tortilla (Spanish omelette)and a coffee for 3.00 euros. Our cherries were 1.99 a kg. 3 huge oranges for 50 cents. Everything in Spain is so inexpensive and everyone seems so happy.
Tonight we are in Albergue San Miguel. This is an absolutely beautiful Albergue. We were greeted at the door with a glass of wine. It is a very artsy place. The walls are covered with artwork of fellow pilgrims who have stayed here in the past. I too could paint a picture, but do not think I could even come close to some of the artwork on these walls. It is such a welcoming place, lovely wood stove, beautiful patio and we all got a bottom bunk! Yeah!!!! As it is getting a bit hard for someone my age to get in and out of bed at night to go to the washroom when I am on the top bunk. I told Natalie if there is only one bunkbed, then I will always let her have the bottom. Age has to have some benefit. lol.
We will be moving out of the Meseta the day after tomorrow. The scenery will change again. It is all beautiful in it´s own way . I have really enjoyed it. We walked roughly 24 k today and I must admit towards the end of our daily walk it can sometimes be a bit hard, but we have realized as long as we take frequent breaks - as per Darlene´s instructions, it makes it so much easier. Chocolate also helps. Darlene told me about that too. Well we are off to take the washing off the line and look for something to eat, will post again soon.
Wednesday, 16 May 2012
Albergue Los Templarios in Terradillos de Templarios
We are staying in an absolutely lovely Albergue on the Mesete. Yesterday we walked a long way and by the end of the 26 km. walk my knees and Shelagh´s hips were killing us. My right knee is swollen and I didn´t think I would be doing myself any favour by walking today. Shelagh, Cathy and myself decided to take a day off and took the bus the 26 km to where we are now. Natalie said she would walk alone. Our bus did not leave until 12:50 which gave us time to explore the town of Carrion los Cabos where we stayed last night. This is a lovely town, bathed in history of the Knights Templar. We just wandered around all day, something we don´t usually have time to do on the days we are walking.
The highlight of our day was a exploring David´s supermarcado. We had so much fun. It was Cathy´s job to line up in the fresh produce department to buy our oranges and bananas. She had to pick a number and wait. It took forever but she told us that just watching the goings on between the customers and servers was really quite interesting. The other customers in the store were so helpful to us ¨ perigrinas¨. One gentleman told us about all the different olives that one can buy. We took wonderful pics of the huge hams hanging on the wall and the different spices. What an experience it was.
We then quickly went to a pizzeria, had a pizza then went to wait for our bus outside the local bar-cafe which is also the bus station. You know, sitting outside drinking our cafe con leche was such an enlightening experience. Watching the comings and goings of this lovely little town was so entertaining. I think there must have been a lot of hurting perigrinos today as our bus quickly filled up with Pilgrims who did not think they were fit enough to make the 26 km walk. A lot of them were knees, some were injuries to the feet. I even heard of a lady who fell off the top bunk in her hostal the other day. All in all our day of rest made for a very interesting day.
The Camino isn´t about rushing from one Albergue to the other. It is about stopping to smell the flowers, just like Ferdinand the bull, and today I think our flower was a rose. I am really starting to get the hang of it. Tomorrow is another day, 23 km. and we will take it slow.
The highlight of our day was a exploring David´s supermarcado. We had so much fun. It was Cathy´s job to line up in the fresh produce department to buy our oranges and bananas. She had to pick a number and wait. It took forever but she told us that just watching the goings on between the customers and servers was really quite interesting. The other customers in the store were so helpful to us ¨ perigrinas¨. One gentleman told us about all the different olives that one can buy. We took wonderful pics of the huge hams hanging on the wall and the different spices. What an experience it was.
We then quickly went to a pizzeria, had a pizza then went to wait for our bus outside the local bar-cafe which is also the bus station. You know, sitting outside drinking our cafe con leche was such an enlightening experience. Watching the comings and goings of this lovely little town was so entertaining. I think there must have been a lot of hurting perigrinos today as our bus quickly filled up with Pilgrims who did not think they were fit enough to make the 26 km walk. A lot of them were knees, some were injuries to the feet. I even heard of a lady who fell off the top bunk in her hostal the other day. All in all our day of rest made for a very interesting day.
The Camino isn´t about rushing from one Albergue to the other. It is about stopping to smell the flowers, just like Ferdinand the bull, and today I think our flower was a rose. I am really starting to get the hang of it. Tomorrow is another day, 23 km. and we will take it slow.
Sunday, 13 May 2012
Burgos
Natalie and I met up with Shelagh and Cathy on Friday morning in Burgos. We decided that after all the walking we have been doing we both deserved a bubble bath so surprised Shelagh and Cathy by booking into their hotel for the night. It was heaven and they were both surprised to see us. We had a lovely day touring around the city. The Cathedral is beautiful and we also took a little sauna train around the city for a tour. Now let me explain the Sauna train. We bought our tickets, ( it was 30 degrees) the driver put us and the rest of the our group on the train and locked the doors and left us for about 15 minutes. On the good side, some people actually pay a lot more for this service and we got the sauna for free.
The next day we left with Shelagh and Cathy for their first day of hiking. We were walking 18 km to Hornillos del Camino. Now let me explain to you how our day on the Camino usually works. We get up in the morning, have a little something to eat, in my case yogurt and banana and water and then we walk to the first coffee bar on our trail. This is usually in about 2 hours and then we relax and have the heavenly cafe con leche. The first day we stopped in Taradajos. We had egg, potato and meat tortillas with our cafe con leche. Just before we left we all had to take our bathroom break. Natalie and Shelagh were first. They came out of the bathroom with a look of horror on their faces. Natalie said " do not use the left cubicle only use the right, there is a black widow spider in there". Cathy and I tentatively made our way to the bathroom. Cathy went into the right cubicle and Julie, as inquisitive as ever, slowly opened the door of the left cubicle. There was the poor spider in the toilet bowl. Neither Cathy or I wanted him to drown. But he seemed to be doing a very good job of staying above the water line. I looked closely and it soon became apparent that it was a spider decal pee target. Cathy and I could not stop laughing, presumed the other two were taking the Micky out of us, which to our amazement they were not. You should have seen the look on their faces when we told them.
We stayed at a lovely Alburgue last night. It was located at the beginning of the Meseta. The Meseta is the equivilant of our Canadian prairies. Not everyone walks the 7 days through the Meseta as it can be a long walk, with not much to look at. I believe the pilgrims that walk the Meseta are a different type of pilgrim. They tend to be more spiritual, as the time on the Meseta gives one time to reflect. I have to tell you that last night at the Alburgue has to be one of my most memorable. Two of the German pilgrims brought musical instruments, a flute and another instrument, a kind of harp, but very small, medieval I believe. They were playing it and singing outside our window. I cannot begin to tell you how beautiful it was. Sitting on the wall, looking out over the Meseta, watching the swallows in the air and listening to this music. I don´t think I have ever felt this way before. It was heavenly.
Today Natalie and I walked another 18 km. with Shelagh and Cathy and we are thoroughly enjoying ourselves. We are staying in another lovely Alburgue 7 euros with the added bonus that the owner does our washing. So it is off for a Pilgrims lunch, a nap, a wander and chatting with other Pilgrims. With luck, our German friends will be staying in the same town. Such is life on the Camino.
The next day we left with Shelagh and Cathy for their first day of hiking. We were walking 18 km to Hornillos del Camino. Now let me explain to you how our day on the Camino usually works. We get up in the morning, have a little something to eat, in my case yogurt and banana and water and then we walk to the first coffee bar on our trail. This is usually in about 2 hours and then we relax and have the heavenly cafe con leche. The first day we stopped in Taradajos. We had egg, potato and meat tortillas with our cafe con leche. Just before we left we all had to take our bathroom break. Natalie and Shelagh were first. They came out of the bathroom with a look of horror on their faces. Natalie said " do not use the left cubicle only use the right, there is a black widow spider in there". Cathy and I tentatively made our way to the bathroom. Cathy went into the right cubicle and Julie, as inquisitive as ever, slowly opened the door of the left cubicle. There was the poor spider in the toilet bowl. Neither Cathy or I wanted him to drown. But he seemed to be doing a very good job of staying above the water line. I looked closely and it soon became apparent that it was a spider decal pee target. Cathy and I could not stop laughing, presumed the other two were taking the Micky out of us, which to our amazement they were not. You should have seen the look on their faces when we told them.
We stayed at a lovely Alburgue last night. It was located at the beginning of the Meseta. The Meseta is the equivilant of our Canadian prairies. Not everyone walks the 7 days through the Meseta as it can be a long walk, with not much to look at. I believe the pilgrims that walk the Meseta are a different type of pilgrim. They tend to be more spiritual, as the time on the Meseta gives one time to reflect. I have to tell you that last night at the Alburgue has to be one of my most memorable. Two of the German pilgrims brought musical instruments, a flute and another instrument, a kind of harp, but very small, medieval I believe. They were playing it and singing outside our window. I cannot begin to tell you how beautiful it was. Sitting on the wall, looking out over the Meseta, watching the swallows in the air and listening to this music. I don´t think I have ever felt this way before. It was heavenly.
Today Natalie and I walked another 18 km. with Shelagh and Cathy and we are thoroughly enjoying ourselves. We are staying in another lovely Alburgue 7 euros with the added bonus that the owner does our washing. So it is off for a Pilgrims lunch, a nap, a wander and chatting with other Pilgrims. With luck, our German friends will be staying in the same town. Such is life on the Camino.
Tuesday, 8 May 2012
The Pilgrim Shuffle
It was a hard slog today, probably the hardest day yet. Both Natalie and I felt quite uncomfortable. Uncomfortable is a medical term, which means painful. You know when the doctor is about to give you a needle and says "this might be a little uncomfortable". This is what we are feeling - pain. From the waist down. We walked 23 km today from Santo Domingo to Belorado. We walked in the rain, against the wind the whole way. Quite tiring. I am now doing the Pilgrim Shuffle. A term I have coined for the way we all seem to be walking today, obviously in pain.
I haven´t blogged for few days due to the fact I could not access my blog. So let me tell you what we have been up to. A few days ago we stayed in a lovely little place called Azorfa. This was the most beautiful Albergue yet. I will call it Camp Azorfa from here on in. This place had a beautiful self contained courtyard, in a lovely little village in the middle of the Spanish countryside. We had a huge communal eating area with room for 200 pilgrims, 2 to a room. Yes! Natalie and I got our own room. We also had a lovely meal with our friends from Calgary and we invited Russell AKA Dennis the Mennis too. We made Chorizo sausage stew and salad with blue cheese washed down with copious amounts of vino tinto. It was such a lovely evening.
The next day we left to walk to Santo Domingo. Along the way we stopped for coffee at a golf course coffee shop. This had to be one of the saddest places I have ever been to. We walked through a purpose built town that was now a virtual ghost town. Nearly every home was empty with a sign that said A Vende - For Sale. The only people who came here were pilgrims and golfers.
Last night we stayed in a municipal Alburgue in Santa Domingo. This contained 200 pilgrims too. 28 to a room and I slept on the top bunk, 2 feet away from a man I had never met in my life and... no it was not Johnny Depp. The only saving Grace was that he did not snore. Not a good night as we had a room full of people who thought they would get up a 5 am. to start their walk. Thank goodness for my earplugs which I wisely bought in the gun department of my local Sail Store. All in all I would be telling a fib if I told you it was an easy day today. But this is the Camino. It isn´t always easy, neither is life. And when talks to the various Pilgrims along the route, one realizes we are all walking the same path, whether it be the Camino or the Path of Life.
I haven´t blogged for few days due to the fact I could not access my blog. So let me tell you what we have been up to. A few days ago we stayed in a lovely little place called Azorfa. This was the most beautiful Albergue yet. I will call it Camp Azorfa from here on in. This place had a beautiful self contained courtyard, in a lovely little village in the middle of the Spanish countryside. We had a huge communal eating area with room for 200 pilgrims, 2 to a room. Yes! Natalie and I got our own room. We also had a lovely meal with our friends from Calgary and we invited Russell AKA Dennis the Mennis too. We made Chorizo sausage stew and salad with blue cheese washed down with copious amounts of vino tinto. It was such a lovely evening.
The next day we left to walk to Santo Domingo. Along the way we stopped for coffee at a golf course coffee shop. This had to be one of the saddest places I have ever been to. We walked through a purpose built town that was now a virtual ghost town. Nearly every home was empty with a sign that said A Vende - For Sale. The only people who came here were pilgrims and golfers.
Last night we stayed in a municipal Alburgue in Santa Domingo. This contained 200 pilgrims too. 28 to a room and I slept on the top bunk, 2 feet away from a man I had never met in my life and... no it was not Johnny Depp. The only saving Grace was that he did not snore. Not a good night as we had a room full of people who thought they would get up a 5 am. to start their walk. Thank goodness for my earplugs which I wisely bought in the gun department of my local Sail Store. All in all I would be telling a fib if I told you it was an easy day today. But this is the Camino. It isn´t always easy, neither is life. And when talks to the various Pilgrims along the route, one realizes we are all walking the same path, whether it be the Camino or the Path of Life.
Saturday, 5 May 2012
The rhythm of the Camino
I have noticed during the past week, that when one is walking the Camino, one has their own rhythm. It isn´t something you notice at the beginning, but after a few days you realize that you walk at your own rate, in your own way. Sometimes Natalie will ask me to stop and look at something and it is really hard to stop and lose your rhythm. I am sure it is the same for her. It is just a slow, plod, plod, plod looking around, getting into the feeling of the Camino. One´s rhythm is a very personal thing.
Today, I saw another blind man, except this man was totally blind. He was holding onto the the backpack of a lady in front of him. There were three of them. The lady, with the blind man holding onto her backpack and another man walking with them. I caught up with them and chatted for awhile. They were a dutch couple and the blind man was their nephew. We had such a jolly time chatting, Mike their nephew spoke English very well. Very funny, thought I was a young woman, said he was looking for a young woman and I told him I hated to disappoint him but I was not, I just had a young voice and I have been married for 39 years.
I have met some very interesting people on the Camino, all with different stories, all with different reasons for walking the Camino. Yesterday I met a young Korean girl Ji Ni who was walking the Camino balancing a large water bottle on her head. She was amazing really. She had become separated from her friend who had hooked up with an American man and she was now walking the Camino alone.
Today Natalie and I walked from Logrono to Ventosa which was a short walk by Camino standards -18 km. We are staying in a lovely Alburgue and sat in the garden all afternoon, drinking wine with our new Canadian friends. Tomorrow we leave for Azorfa.
You know meeting Mike and his aunt made me think about the rhythm of the Camino. These are two people who are different by Camino standards - They are walking the Camino together as one. This is the magic of the Camino.
Today, I saw another blind man, except this man was totally blind. He was holding onto the the backpack of a lady in front of him. There were three of them. The lady, with the blind man holding onto her backpack and another man walking with them. I caught up with them and chatted for awhile. They were a dutch couple and the blind man was their nephew. We had such a jolly time chatting, Mike their nephew spoke English very well. Very funny, thought I was a young woman, said he was looking for a young woman and I told him I hated to disappoint him but I was not, I just had a young voice and I have been married for 39 years.
I have met some very interesting people on the Camino, all with different stories, all with different reasons for walking the Camino. Yesterday I met a young Korean girl Ji Ni who was walking the Camino balancing a large water bottle on her head. She was amazing really. She had become separated from her friend who had hooked up with an American man and she was now walking the Camino alone.
Today Natalie and I walked from Logrono to Ventosa which was a short walk by Camino standards -18 km. We are staying in a lovely Alburgue and sat in the garden all afternoon, drinking wine with our new Canadian friends. Tomorrow we leave for Azorfa.
You know meeting Mike and his aunt made me think about the rhythm of the Camino. These are two people who are different by Camino standards - They are walking the Camino together as one. This is the magic of the Camino.
Friday, 4 May 2012
Los Arcos to Lograno
Well, Natalie and I have moved up in the World. We have gone from spending the night on a mattress on the gym floor in Zuberi to spending last night in the most lovely Alburgue yet. We had a private room, well.... almost private. It was the Canadian Contingent. Me and Nat, Hope and Gail from Calgary and Margaret and Miriam from Owen Sound Ontario. We cooked a communal dinner of rice, shrimp and salad followed by flan, or as I know it creme caramel, followed by nice glass of wine. Then... off to bed only to awaken at 6 for a lovely breakfast supplied by our hosts. Off we went 28 km to Lograno. It was a lovely walk, through vineyards, olive groves and wheat fields. On the way we bumped into Russell, or as I have named him. Dennis. Now let me tell you about Russell. We met him on our first night in Zuberi. He is a legally blind chap, originally from Glasgow who now lives near Victoria Station in London. He is travelling the Camino, by himself on an extremely limited budget. The reason I named him Dennis is due to his black and red sweater his mother had knit him. For those of you who are not from the UK, a cartoon character named Dennis the Mennis wears this sweater. Russell is 46 and used to be a scaffolder but due to his becoming blind is now on disability. We couldn´´t believe that Russell had made it this far. He was not properly equipped, was sleeping rough most of the time, not in an albergue, he would just find shelter on the side of the road. He is a lovely man and it was so nice to bump into him again. We contined on our way. We tend to be travelling most of the time with Hope and Gail, the two sisters from Calgary. Natalie bless her heart is booking our Alburgues ahead of time as she can speak Spanish very well and knows how to use the phone. We have arrived in Lagrono and our Alburgue is in an apartment complex with no cooking facilities so it will be a pilgrim´´s special for us tonight. This consists of 4 courses for around 8 euros. Great food. Our accomodation price is a bit high today. 10.50 euros. This is such a fantastic experience. I can feel my legs getting stronger daily and my mind is becoming clearer. If possible, I will try and blog again tomorrow. Adios Amigos
Thursday, 26 April 2012
Paris
Well we have arrived after a basically uneventful flight. Natalie and I were wondering though is it a good omen that "Happy Feet" was the inflight movie? Something to think about I'd say and only time will tell. unfortunately when we went to pick up our luggage the lovely baggage handlers had ripped off the sternum strap of Natalie's backpack. Not a good start I'd say. That aside we have had a fabulous time seeing all the major sites of Paris. Did i mention it is now my favourite city? Such wonderful architecture and so clean. We have one more day here and then will catch a train to St Jean Peid De Port on Saturday
Thursday, 19 April 2012
The Gym Ladies
As some of you may know, I am leaving next Tuesday the 24th of April for "My Camino". I was not going to post on my blog again until that day, but I feel that should let you know about something that happened last night.
They say that the Camino provides, that it is magic, that it changes your life. I feel that even before I have left for the Camino my life has changed. As I have mentioned in my previous posts I am walking the Camino with two ladies that I met at the gym.
Now let me tell you about the gym. I started going to the gym a few years ago but didn't start to go on a regular basis until last May. This is because of Judy. Judy is our gym instructor who 3 times a weeks runs a fitness class. She just seems to have a way of bringing everyone together. During our class we laugh, we sing, we talk and boy do we talk. And... of course we exercise. All of the ladies in the class know about Natalie, Shelagh and myself walking the Camino and they have been so supportive. It is not every day one wakes up and decides one is going to walk 800 km. in the North of Spain. It can sometimes seems a bit daunting and just chatting with these ladies in the class makes the whole thing seem more attainable and more real.
Last night they took the three of us out for a little Bon Voyage dinner at the local pub. When I looked down the table and saw all the people that came out to wish us well it made me realize how fortunate we three are. I didn't even know these ladies a year ago. But there they all were, sending us on our way with Good Wishes. Gosh I feel blessed, and I know that when I am on the Camino, and it is raining, and my legs might be aching and I might be thinking what the heck have I done. I will close my eyes and picture that table in the pub with all the gym ladies and..... I will keep on walking and walking and walking.
They say that the Camino provides, that it is magic, that it changes your life. I feel that even before I have left for the Camino my life has changed. As I have mentioned in my previous posts I am walking the Camino with two ladies that I met at the gym.
Now let me tell you about the gym. I started going to the gym a few years ago but didn't start to go on a regular basis until last May. This is because of Judy. Judy is our gym instructor who 3 times a weeks runs a fitness class. She just seems to have a way of bringing everyone together. During our class we laugh, we sing, we talk and boy do we talk. And... of course we exercise. All of the ladies in the class know about Natalie, Shelagh and myself walking the Camino and they have been so supportive. It is not every day one wakes up and decides one is going to walk 800 km. in the North of Spain. It can sometimes seems a bit daunting and just chatting with these ladies in the class makes the whole thing seem more attainable and more real.
Last night they took the three of us out for a little Bon Voyage dinner at the local pub. When I looked down the table and saw all the people that came out to wish us well it made me realize how fortunate we three are. I didn't even know these ladies a year ago. But there they all were, sending us on our way with Good Wishes. Gosh I feel blessed, and I know that when I am on the Camino, and it is raining, and my legs might be aching and I might be thinking what the heck have I done. I will close my eyes and picture that table in the pub with all the gym ladies and..... I will keep on walking and walking and walking.
Friday, 16 March 2012
Trial Run
Today I thought it was about time I did a hike with my backpack. It is recommended that one's backpack should not weigh anymore than 20 lbs. (9.07 kg.) or else one will just start throwing things out of their backpack whilst on the Camino in order to make the journey a little more bearable. I have been very conscious of weight whilst buying all the various things I will need on the Camino. For instance my sleeping bag only weighs 675 grams.( 1 1/2 lbs.) Today my backpack was not fully packed, I didn't have my two pairs of socks, my Crocs ( a Camino fashion statement) my contact lense fluid, toothpaste, toothbrush and meds, and a couple of other things packed but that was it. It only weighed 10 lbs. Yipee!!! I figure once I have fully packed it, it will be about 15 lbs. maximum which is very good.
I had made arrangments to meet Natalie at the top of the street and we walked 4 km. to start our hike with the rest of our group. We had a lovely hike through the Don Valley. It is hard to believe that such a beautiful Valley runs right through the centre of Toronto. We walked along the Don River. Darlene, the group leader really planned a nice hike and our goal was the Camino Restaurant on Danforth Avenue.
The owner of the Camino restaurant is Hiroshi, who is originally from Japan and is a French trained chef . He has walked the Camino twice. Besides the wonderful food he prepared, he also gave us a slide show of his trip on the Camino de Norte last year. It was lovely to see the passion he felt whilst talking about his previous pilgrimages.
After our lunch we were on the road again and by the time we were finished Darlene informed me we had walked 23 km. and I felt great! No pains from the back pack and I felt I could have walked another 5 km. I am starting to think I am ready for the Camino.
I had made arrangments to meet Natalie at the top of the street and we walked 4 km. to start our hike with the rest of our group. We had a lovely hike through the Don Valley. It is hard to believe that such a beautiful Valley runs right through the centre of Toronto. We walked along the Don River. Darlene, the group leader really planned a nice hike and our goal was the Camino Restaurant on Danforth Avenue.
The owner of the Camino restaurant is Hiroshi, who is originally from Japan and is a French trained chef . He has walked the Camino twice. Besides the wonderful food he prepared, he also gave us a slide show of his trip on the Camino de Norte last year. It was lovely to see the passion he felt whilst talking about his previous pilgrimages.
After our lunch we were on the road again and by the time we were finished Darlene informed me we had walked 23 km. and I felt great! No pains from the back pack and I felt I could have walked another 5 km. I am starting to think I am ready for the Camino.
Sunday, 11 March 2012
Why I am walking the Camino.
In May of last year, my friend Natalie walked the El Camino de Santiago de Compostela for the 4th time. Natalie is a fellow gym member at Fitness Works for Women, a wonderful gym in Toronto which I belong to. Whilst she was on the Camino she would keep us up to date, via email,with her various adventures, whilst walking this 800 km. pilgrimage. I must admit that until then, I had never heard of the El Camino, but reading her emails made me want to find out more.
I researched the El Camino de Santiago de Compostela, otherwise known as The Way of St. James and learnt that it was one of the most important Christian Piligrimages during medieval times and is over 1000 years old. The most common route is the Camino de Frances. The route starts at St. Jean de Pied de Port on the border of France and Spain and ends in Santiago where legend says the bones of St. James have been laid to rest.
The more I read about this Pilgrimage, the more it seemed to have a grip on me. I wasn't sure I was as brave as Natalie, who had walked it the four times by herself, I really didn't feel I could walk it alone. She returned home in June with all her wonderful tales of the roads she had walked, the people she had met, the food she had eaten and the wonderful feeling one has, just by walking the Camino. She then announced that she would take anyone who wished to go with her on the Camino the following year and I jumped at the chance.
I started walking and planning right away and we now have two other Pilgrims who will be joining us too. Shelagh, another gym member and her friend Cathy. We leave on April 24th and start walking on April 29th.
People walk the Camino for different reasons. Religious, Spiritual or just for the challenge. 10 years ago I was diagnosed with breast cancer. After six months of surgery and some not very nice treatment, my life moved on, but one never really knows when one has had cancer if it will ever return. I often think of other breast cancer patients who were not as "lucky" as me. I don't ever like to dwell on the fact that I had breast cancer, but it is always there, far back in the recesses of my mind and I am very thankful that after 10 years I am still cancer free. It is for this reason that I am walking the Camino. "My Camino" is a Celebration - A Celebration of my Life.
I researched the El Camino de Santiago de Compostela, otherwise known as The Way of St. James and learnt that it was one of the most important Christian Piligrimages during medieval times and is over 1000 years old. The most common route is the Camino de Frances. The route starts at St. Jean de Pied de Port on the border of France and Spain and ends in Santiago where legend says the bones of St. James have been laid to rest.
The more I read about this Pilgrimage, the more it seemed to have a grip on me. I wasn't sure I was as brave as Natalie, who had walked it the four times by herself, I really didn't feel I could walk it alone. She returned home in June with all her wonderful tales of the roads she had walked, the people she had met, the food she had eaten and the wonderful feeling one has, just by walking the Camino. She then announced that she would take anyone who wished to go with her on the Camino the following year and I jumped at the chance.
I started walking and planning right away and we now have two other Pilgrims who will be joining us too. Shelagh, another gym member and her friend Cathy. We leave on April 24th and start walking on April 29th.
People walk the Camino for different reasons. Religious, Spiritual or just for the challenge. 10 years ago I was diagnosed with breast cancer. After six months of surgery and some not very nice treatment, my life moved on, but one never really knows when one has had cancer if it will ever return. I often think of other breast cancer patients who were not as "lucky" as me. I don't ever like to dwell on the fact that I had breast cancer, but it is always there, far back in the recesses of my mind and I am very thankful that after 10 years I am still cancer free. It is for this reason that I am walking the Camino. "My Camino" is a Celebration - A Celebration of my Life.
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